In the foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta on Colombia’s Caribbean coast lies the municipality of Pueblo Bello, a region renowned for its coffee cultivation and distinctive indigenous farming techniques.
With its rich biodiversity, Pueblo Bello holds significant potential for producing specialty coffee. Despite facing challenges in scaling up production, the region has drawn attention from the global coffee market. Colombia One visited Pueblo Bello to interview local coffee growers and learn more about their journey, challenges, and the future of coffee in this promising region.
Organic coffee from Indigenous communities in Colombia Caribbean region
Pueblo Bello is home to indigenous communities, most notably the Arhuacos, who have long been stewards of the land. The region primarily produces the Castillo variety of Arabica coffee, along with other high-quality types like Caturra and Bourbon Amarillo. Preferred flavor profiles include notes of chocolate, caramel, panela, and a hint of acidity, all highly sought after by international buyers.
Gustavo Andres Vargas, owner of Victoria Coffee Farm in Pueblo Bello, highlights the sustainability of the Arhuacos’ coffee production methods. They produce organic coffee, meaning no chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides are used. Instead, they rely on traditional techniques, with weed control carried out manually using machetes or scythes.
The Arhuacos practice shade-grown coffee cultivation, as they avoid cutting down trees to boost productivity. Another unique aspect of their approach is the involvement of the entire family in the cultivation process, including harvesting. This communal effort eliminates the need to hire extra labor during harvest season, which is often prohibitively expensive.
Coffee cultivation plays a vital role in the local economy, providing around 1,200 direct jobs, as Pueblo Bello ranks third among the largest coffee producers on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, with over 1,500 families registered as coffee growers.
However, challenges remain for coffee growers in the region. Jose Ferney Fuentes Vargas, another coffee farmer from Pueblo Bello, noted the growing reluctance among workers to accept low wages for farm labor. Raising wages is not a viable solution for him, as the income from exporting green coffee beans barely covers the costs needed to maintain the farm.
With Pueblo Bello, Colombia has the potential to produce specialty coffee
Specialty coffee represents the highest quality in the industry and has become the latest trend in the coffee market. While Pueblo Bello’s production volume is relatively small, the region holds significant potential despite its limited resources to scale up.
For coffee to be classified as specialty, it must meet stringent criteria, including optimal altitude, rich soil quality, favorable microclimates, and adherence to organic and sustainable practices. Additionally, the coffee must be manually harvested, properly roasted, and brewed under strict standards. A cupping score of 80 points or higher out of 100 is required for it to be considered marketable. Due to these qualities, specialty coffee is highly valued in the international market, commanding premium prices.
Buyers of specialty coffee, such as café owners, also gain access to detailed information about the coffee’s cultivation conditions, as well as the family or company responsible for its production, adding a personal touch to their purchase.
How the coffee grower can make more profit
Gustavo Andres Vargas from Pueblo Bello emphasized that the processing method of coffee plays a key role in determining its price and, consequently, a grower’s profitability. For instance, the standard method of washing, fermenting, and drying the coffee beans, which removes the layers of pulp, skin, parchment, and mucilage, yields a price of 20,000 pesos per kilogram. While this method is common, it results in a lower market value.
If Vargas opts for the honey processing method, the price increases to 22,000 pesos per kilogram. Honey processing combines elements of both washed and natural methods, resulting in a coffee with lower acidity and a subtler fruity flavor, which makes it more valuable than the standard washed process.
The highest price, 25,000 pesos per kilogram, comes from using the natural processing method. In this method, the coffee cherries are left to dry on patios, which can produce coffee with rich fruity flavors and even wine-like notes if processed correctly.
In addition to coffee production, Vargas is expanding his business by developing a tourism project at his Olgus farm. Visitors will have the opportunity to take guided tours, where they can observe every step of the coffee production process. Guests can even stay overnight, experiencing the beauty of the coffee fields, picking berries, and engaging in activities such as depulping, fermenting, washing, drying, roasting, and, of course, tasting the freshly made coffee—all while enjoying the serene environment. This initiative not only diversifies his income but also promotes a deeper appreciation for the region’s coffee culture.
A coffee from conflict-affected areas with a global reach
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and Serranía del Perijá were once regions marked by violence, forcing many farmers to abandon their land due to threats from illegal armed groups. Today, however, coffee growers report that their lives have become relatively peaceful, and they no longer require protection—only strong relationships with their neighbors.
According to Álvaro Osorio Cuenca, executive director of the Departmental Committee of Coffee Growers of Cesar Guajira, Pueblo Bello’s estimated green coffee production in 2023 reached 54,000 bags of 60kg each. The vast majority of this coffee, over 95%, was exported. For comparison, Colombia produced 11.3 million bags of green coffee that year, with 10.58 million bags exported.
Coffee from Pueblo Bello is mainly exported to Europe (60%), followed by the United States (25%) and Japan (15%). The region primarily produces the Castillo variety of Arabica coffee, along with other high-quality types like Caturra and Bourbon Amarillo. Preferred flavor profiles include notes of chocolate, caramel, panela, and a hint of acidity, all highly sought after by international buyers.