Deeply embedded in Panama’s Afro-descendant communities, the culinary tradition, rich in history and storytelling of Afro-Panamanian cuisine is gaining recognition, though its influence has always been far-reaching.
The Cultural Roots of Afro-Panamanian Cuisine
Chefs like Isaac Villaverde and Joseph Archbold are amplifying traditional recipes to preserve the cultural identity of Afro-Panamanian cuisine, considering it an act of pride and resistance. “Food is a way of telling stories and keeping our roots alive. At the end of the day, what we are doing is reinforcing our identity through gastronomy,” Villaverde explains.
As founder of ‘La Tapa del Coco’ one of the benchmark restaurants for Afro-Panamanian cuisine in the region, Villaverde has worked to rescue and revalue classic flavors, combining them with modern techniques to offer a remarkable culinary experience.
A Modern Take on Afro-Panamanian Flavors
For those who have not tried his dishes, Chef Villaverde recommends starting with a ‘One Pot Colonense’, which encapsulates the flavor and tradition of the Caribbean coast, and accompanying it with a saril margarita with ginger. Also not to be missed is the dessert with cocoa and Panamanian specialty coffee.
‘La Tapa del Coco’ opened its doors in 2013, attaining distinction as one of the best eateries in Latin America. In a decade, the perception of Afro-Panamanian cuisine in Panama had time to ripen: “Before it was seen as something every day and often undervalued, but today it is earning the praise it deserves as a cuisine rich in history, technique and flavor.”
The restaurant’s name also has a double meaning: “On the one hand, it represents an emblematic ingredient in our cuisine, the coconut, which is the base of many Afro-Panamanian dishes. On the other hand, the expression ‘tapa del coco’ is a colloquial term that means that you are either very good or very bad at doing something. It is a play on words very typical of our region, where you never know if something is completely serious or has a touch of humor,” says Villaverde.
The entrepreneur with roots in Colon wishes for future generations to understand that food is a way of telling stories and keeping their roots alive: “It’s a permanent dance. What makes it unique is how it tells our story of resilience and cultural mix.”
According to the 2023 population and housing census, 33.2% of the Panamanian population identifies itself as Afro-descendant. The largest representation of the Afro-Panamanian community is found in the provinces of Panama, Colon, and Bocas del Toro.
Afro-Panamanian cuisine’s global future
Chef Joseph Archbold, founder of Bocas Hospitality Group (BHG) and the condiments brand ‘LA MUSA’, combines tradition with innovation in his culinary creations. Using ingredients like coconut, plantain, and ají chombo, Archbold highlights the flavors and techniques that define Afro-Panamanian cuisine.
One standout dish he recommends is Rondón, a hearty stew made with fish, coconut milk, and vegetables. “This dish represents the connection with the sea and the abundance of local ingredients. It is a symbol of unity,” he shares.
The businessman, also professionally trained in French cuisine, believes that the essence of Afro-Panamanian cuisine lies in the use of spices and techniques that bring out intense, warm and comforting flavors: “You have to make sure that the essential flavors remain intact while presenting them with contemporary techniques. I like to think of my dishes as telling a story, the past meets the present to create something authentic and exciting.”
Chef Archbold’s work aims to elevate Afro-Panamanian cuisine to global prominence. “Through my work, I seek to put this cuisine on the global map, showcasing its depth, creativity, and connection to its environment,” he adds.
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