In Colombia, the arepa is often seen as an essential side dish, whereas in neighboring Venezuela, it is the undisputed protagonist of the meal. Both nations claim the maize flatbread as their own. But beyond the tired back-and-forth arguments, the heated viral debate over the origin of the arepa is cementing its culinary legacy across borders.
“The controversy has personally helped me a lot,” jokes Chef Jorge Udelman, owner of Orale Arepa, a popular Venezuelan restaurant in Mexico City. “In different places of the world, when I say that I am Venezuelan, they automatically ask in a teasing tone: ‘Is the arepa Venezuelan or Colombian?’ So, for me, it’s always a reason to lighten up. I have always respected the fact that each country has its own arepa to defend.”
Chef Udelman describes the arepa as “a noble food that everyone likes.” He emphasizes that its gluten-free corn base is a perfect fit for the Latin American diet. “Among our most requested dishes are the more traditional arepas with beans, cheese, plantain, and flavorful pulled meat. I am a lover of the classic. I would not change anything about the arepa as a whole.”
Tracing the arepa’s origin
In his book ¡Viva la Arepa!, historian Miguel Felipe Dorta proclaims that the word “arepa” may originate from “erepa,” which meant “corn” in the language of the Cumanagoto indigenous people. The native Muisca and Zenú people in Colombia were also known to prepare corn-based breads as staples in their diet, long before the arrival of the Spanish.
The first colonial settlements gave rise to new variations of the original recipe, with alterations to the cooking method and the addition of artisanal cheese.
Colombia now boasts the greatest variety of arepas, including “paisas,” “boyacenses,” “santandereanas,” and “choclo,” to name a few. Meanwhile, Venezuela has spawned more widespread fillings, such as “reina pepiada,” “sifrina,” “pabellon criollo,” “llanera,” and “domino.”
A taste of home
Although Colombian arepas are often consumed as complements to main dishes, they are irreplaceable in the country’s culinary tradition.
Luz Mery Vasquez, owner of Arepas del Hogar in Valle del Cauca, southwestern Colombia, believes it is important to “respect and maintain the traditional recipes of the original Colombian arepas, with the use of high-quality local ingredients.”
The local entrepreneur finds running her arepa-centric artisanal factory both rewarding and challenging. “The arepa is the third most-sold product in the country after eggs and bread. It represents our dream come true and reflects our desire to bring these values to our customers, offering a product that transmits affection, trust, and a taste of home in every bite,” she explains.
Vasquez’s family business offers five types of arepas, with thick arepas being the most popular.
A canvas for creativity
“The arepa is a shared heritage that transcends borders,” says Ximena Montilla Arreaza, CEO of Arraigo Group, an editorial coalition and publishing house. “Its origin dates back to the pre-Hispanic cultures of Venezuela and Colombia. Each country has developed its traditions and variations, symbolizing their national identity and reflecting the richness and creativity of their respective cultures.”
Montilla Arreaza’s educational project, Historia de la Arepa, highlights the role that the cornmeal delicacy plays as a cultural bridge, as well as its universal potential. “Globalization can be a powerful tool to preserve and spread our culinary identity, as long as its essence is respected. We see it as a celebration of similarities and differences. Although our project focuses more on the Venezuelan arepa, it does not mean we don’t also consider its Colombian heritage,” she explains.
“Even in times of scarcity in Venezuela, when corn flour was not available, arepas were made with pumpkin, plantain, yuca, sweet potato, among other products that were within reach,” Montilla Arreaza notes, referencing the often volatile commercialization of the pre-packaged mixes in Venezuela.
The Arraigo Group recently presented the book An Arepa for Peace, which features 14 arepa recipes from refugee-hosting countries, at the International Gastronomy Symposium and the Congress of Women Leaders at Harvard University.
“Ultimately, the arepa is union and celebration. Latinos are a great community that shares delicious cornbreads that are also related to the arepa, such as tortillas, changas, pupusas, and gorditas. We must seek to unite and understand that the similarities and contrasts that combine us also enrich us. The best arepa is the one that is shared!” she asserts.