Where the Devil Dances: The Magic of Jujuy’s Northern Carnival in Argentina

Written on 03/02/2026
Virgi Asprilla

Every year in Argentina, Jujuy’s Northern Carnival turns strangers into participants — and leaves them counting the days until they can return. Credit: Virgi Asprilla / Colombia One

Colorful, joyful, deeply rooted in tradition, and unlike anything else in the world — that is the Carnival of Jujuy, Argentina. Celebrated annually during Lent, the dates shift between February and March each year depending on the timing of Easter Sunday. Visitors from around the world consistently rank the Northern Argentine Carnival among the most colorful and joyful in the world.

The Jujuy Carnival is a rich fusion of pre-Hispanic indigenous rituals honoring fertility and Pachamama, the goddess of Mother Nature — central figures in Andean spirituality — woven together with Hispanic tradition.

Credit: Virgi Asprilla / Colombia One

Jujuy, Argentina’s most joyful carnival

The tradition of wearing elaborate costumes, dancing folk music, and descending from the hillside dressed as the Pujllay — leaping, dancing, laughing, and celebrating alongside strangers and friends alike — is an experience unlike any other. Crowds arrive from across the globe to live it firsthand. And while carnival is celebrated in many countries, the Northern Argentine carnival is unique in its ability to transform visitors from mere spectators into full participants in the festivities.

Celebrated across Jujuy, Salta, Tucumán, Catamarca, and parts of La Rioja — spanning the Quebrada de Humahuaca and the Puna plateau — these northern regions achieve a remarkable fusion of indigenous Andean traditions and Spanish colonial heritage. The sound of bells jingling behind the hillside signals the awakening of mystical beings who emerge to usher in the carnival season.

Credit: Virgi Asprilla / Colombia One

Visitors delight in playing with colored paint, talcum powder, foam, and serpentine streamers, while dancing, eating traditional food, and singing coplas — improvised verses exchanged between revelers. Gathered in comparsas (festive groups), participants share homemade spirits and don vibrant costumes, all of which together compose this magnificent celebration.

Credit: Virgi Asprilla / Colombia One

The Pujllays are men and women who dress as devils each year to bring joy and wonder to visitors. It is a point of great tradition and pride that the identity of the person behind the Pujllay costume remains unknown — their face and voice are deliberately concealed. Legend holds that the devil hides his face and disguises his voice to avoid being recognized in the village, as in earlier times the carnival was celebrated exclusively among the native population, away from outside eyes.

Credit: Virgi Asprilla / Colombia One

A month-long celebration

The carnival season lasts well over a month. This year, it kicked off on January 22 with the Jueves de Padrinos, followed by the Jueves de Compadres on February 5 — a Thursday dedicated especially to men, who leave their homes, gather, dance, eat, and drink together, celebrating their bonds and giving thanks to nature.

Jujuy carnival in Argentina
Credit: Virgi Asprilla / Colombia One

The Jueves de Comadres, held on February 12, follows the same spirit, with men and women each celebrating on their respective day — gathering in community, reaffirming their autonomy, and paying homage to the Pachamama through offerings at a Mojón: a tall mound of stones serving as an altar where petitions are made for life’s many circumstances, connecting the earth and its people. Beside this sacred site, a barrel of locally made liquor is placed and shared freely with all visitors.

Credit: Virgi Asprilla / Colombia One

The following Saturday marks the desentierro — the “unearthing of the devil” — and the true opening of the Grand Carnival, unleashing joy, revelry, and spirited chaos. The iconic Bajada de los Diablitos del Cerro (Descent of the Little Devils from the Hillside) is one of the most anticipated moments of the entire celebration. In 2026, this event took place on February 14 in Uquía and Maimará, coinciding with the opening weekend of the Carnaval Grande.

Credit: Virgi Asprilla / Colombia One

On Sunday, different comparsas parade through the city, departing from their home bases and dancing and playing their signature melodies from dawn until well past midnight. Each comparsa is welcomed by a local family who opens their home to feed, drink, dance, and sing coplas with all who pass through.

Martes de Chaya, celebrated this year on February 17, is the day of gratitude to the Pachamama for all material blessings received throughout the year. The Chaya ritual consists of blessing homes, cars, and belongings with alcoholic drinks, talcum powder, foam, serpentine, and basil. The city transforms as vehicles, houses, and all manner of objects are decorated in festive tribute — all while the celebrations rage on without pause.

The final Sunday, known as Domingo de Tentación, is when the devil is symbolically “reburied,” bringing the carnival to a close. A great bonfire is lit, and offerings are cast into the flames as tribute to nature. The Pujllays and the gathered crowd surrender personal objects to the fire as offerings. Locals prepare sartas — necklaces strung with fruits, vegetables, and meats — to ensure a prosperous year ahead. In 2026, the cycle closes on March 7 with the Carnaval de Remache, the final farewell until next year.

Credit: Virgi Asprilla / Colombia One