Few dishes embody as much history, flavor, and national pride as ajiaco, a thick, comforting soup that stands as the culinary emblem of Bogota and a symbol of Colombia’s cultural blend. Preparing it is more than just cooking — it’s reliving centuries of tradition, where Indigenous roots meet colonial influences and family rituals. And there is a grandmothers’ secret to thickening Colombian ajiaco to perfection.
Ajiaco dates back to the pre-Columbian Muisca people, who cultivated various types of potatoes in the Bogota highlands. When the Spanish arrived, they introduced chicken, cream, and capers — turning a humble native soup into a rich mestizo dish that still defines Colombian comfort food.
Today, ajiaco is a cultural experience as much as a meal. It’s served in Bogota’s homes, celebrated in upscale restaurants, and enjoyed at family gatherings where heritage and hospitality simmer together.
The soul of the dish: the ingredients
The secret of ajiaco lies in the harmony of its three kinds of potatoes:
Papa criolla (yellow potato) — small, creamy, and perfect for thickening the broth;
Pastusa — starchy and soft, giving body and texture;
Sabanera — firm, holding its shape for balance.
To these you add bone-in chicken, fresh corn on the cob, guascas (a wild herb native to the Andes), garlic, onion, cilantro, salt, and pepper. Traditional accompaniments include heavy cream, capers, avocado, and white rice — served separately, as is custom.
How to make Colombian ajiaco, step by step
Prepare the broth
Simmer chicken with onion, garlic, cilantro, ripe tomato, and salt in a large pot of water for about 40 minutes, until the broth is rich and fragrant.
Shred the chicken
Remove the meat, let it cool to shred it or try to do it while warm by using a fork in each hand, and set aside.
Add the potatoes and corn
First, add the pastusa and sabanera potatoes with the corn pieces. After 15 minutes, add the criolla potatoes — they’ll partially dissolve, naturally thickening the soup. And here comes the grandmothers’ secret to thickening Colombian ajiaco: potatoes should not be cut with a knife but rather torn apart (with the help of a knife, of course).
Add the guascas
When the potatoes are tender, add the guascas and more cilantro. This herb gives ajiaco its unmistakable aroma and earthy flavor.
Return the chicken
Stir the shredded chicken back into the pot, season with salt and pepper, and simmer a few minutes more.
Serve
Serve the soup steaming hot, with cream, capers, and avocado on the side. White rice is served separately.
A ritual of comfort and identity
More than a recipe, ajiaco is a symbol of Bogota’s warmth and Colombia’s culinary resilience. Its distinctive flavor has traveled the world, comforting expatriate communities in New York, Madrid, and Mexico City — a taste of home that connects them to their roots.
In an age of fast food and shortcuts, ajiaco stands as a reminder that cooking slowly, with patience and heart, remains one of the most powerful ways to tell our story.