The vibrant colors and rich flavors of Latin American and Colombian cuisine have found a new home in Marseille, France, thanks to Juan Pulgarin. After spending 20 years in France, the Colombian chef opened “El Barrio Marsella” four months ago.
Located in Noailles, a lively neighborhood in the port city of southern France, Pulgarin’s establishment serves as a restaurant and a grocery store. Noailles is renowned for the Capucins market, a bustling hub where visitors can discover fresh and exotic fruits and vegetables, making it the ideal location for Pulgarin’s latest venture.
From Paris to Marseille: Chef Juan Pulgarin brings Colombian cuisine to France
Pulgarin arrived in Paris over 20 years ago, where he pursued a classic culinary education at a hotel school in the city. Earlier in his career, he worked in Michelin-starred establishments. “France [provided] a great opportunity to study gastronomy because of its excellent reputation for cuisine,” he said. Over the years, Pulgarin gained experience in both local and world-renowned restaurants. He now brings this rich culinary knowledge to his own restaurant, showcasing Colombian and Latin American cuisine in France.
Five years ago, Pulgarin moved to Marseille, in the south of France, aspiring to become known as “the Colombian in Marseille.” “I felt that this city lacked the Latin American swing, even though I noticed people were interested in the region’s cuisine,” he said.
Before becoming a restaurant, El Barrio Marsella was a project aimed at hosting gastronomic events featuring Latin American street food. “For me, the most important aspect was to showcase the variety of chili peppers and introduce people to the diverse flavors traditional in Latin American cuisine,” Pulgarin explained. Opening El Barrio Marsella allowed him to bring together his culinary experience and love for Latin American products.
“El Barrio Marsella”, a Colombian experience in Marseille
Pulgarin offers not only Colombian cuisine, but also traditional street dishes from Mexico, Peru, Venezuela, Cuba and Argentina. For instance, before starting their meal, guests can enjoy “pandebono,” a traditional bread from Valle del Cauca, Colombia.
El Barrio Marsella is the perfect spot for both residents and tourists. “I am sure many French citizens are delighted to visit the neighborhood,” said Pulgarin. “Whether they are reminiscing about their trips to Colombia or have a relative married to a Colombian, they have the chance to find a small venue that brings back the flavors and experiences of Colombia.”
Pulgarin’s menu introduces visitors to traditional recipes such as “huevos rancheros” (scrambled eggs with sausages); Colombian arepas, a type of corn cake; or Argentinian empanadas. He also offers a traditional lemonade made with panela (pressed and heated cane sugar) and lime.
In addition to the restaurant, El barrio Marsella includes a grocery store stocked with the Latin American products Pulgarin uses in his recipes. For example, visitors can find “Harina Pan” (flour for arepas), various types of corn, clamato (a tomato sauce essential in Mexican cuisine), Valentina sauce or panela; a wide variety of chili peppers from the Amazon, Mexico, and Peru; and specialty coffees. The store also features accessories such as cotton bags, which are hand-made by women from Colombia’s Wayuu indigenous community.
Chef Pulgarin brings Colombian coffee culture to “El Barrio Marsella”
Beyond his culinary skills, Pulgarin has developed a deep passion for specialty coffees, particularly those from Colombia. He sources the coffee beans, roasts them himself, and offers high-quality brews to his customers, further enhancing the Colombian cuisine experience in France.
“I have worked with Colombian coffee producers for seven years, and throughout that time, I have aspired to create my own coffee brand. My idea was to have a place where I could showcase the unique flavors of Colombian coffee,” he explained.
Although he has only recently opened El Barrio Marsella, Pulgarin envisions expanding to cities with strong Latin American food scenes and communities. However, he plans to first see how his business fares once the tourist season ends. “After the season ends and things calm down, I want to focus on developing the coffee project, as it is one of the products I am most passionate about,” Pulgarin said. “This coffee project is a way to dignify the work of Colombian coffee growers and promote Colombian coffee abroad.”
Related: Meet the Colombians of Paris, France