In Colombia, approximately 120km south of Bogota, lies Agua de Dios, a village that is remembered for having been a refuge and final destination for leprosy patients up until 1961. This town has a unique history and is still known today as Colombia’s “Village of the Lepers.”
For decades, Agua de Dios (“God’s Water”) was a place of enforced isolation for people diagnosed with leprosy. What could have been a forgotten corner of suffering became an example of resistance and humanity, although it also left behind echoes of fear and legends that still persist in Colombia’s collective memory.
Leprosy is a chronic infectious disease caused by Mycobacterium leprae. It mainly affects the skin, peripheral nerves and mucous membranes. Today it is curable with a combination of antibiotics, but for centuries, in Colombia and elsewhere, it was highly feared. Those who suffered from the disease were stigmatized owing to the fear of contagion.
The history of Agua de Dios, Colombia’s ‘leper village’
The history of Agua de Dios begins in the 19th century, when leprosy, also known as Hansen’s disease, spread through several regions of Colombia. Faced with the lack of effective treatments and the fear of contagion, the authorities decided to create “lazarettos” or isolation colonies for the sick.
In 1870, the Agua de Dios leprosy colony was established, and little by little it became the forced destination for those diagnosed with the disease.
Initial conditions were precarious: people arrived with few resources, and faced social stigma and abandonment. However, over time, the village’s inhabitants began to organize themselves to build a functional community. Houses, hospitals, churches and schools were erected, creating a kind of city within the confines of isolation.
Celebrities at Agua de Dios: talent amidst adversity
In the almost 100 years that Agua de Dios functioned as a place of confinement and isolation for leprosy patients in Colombia, several artists and illustrious people passed through the town.
Among the most outstanding was the composer Luis Antonio Calvo, who ended his days in Agua de Dios in April 1945. Considered one of Colombia’s most important musicians, during his confinement he created some of his most emblematic works. This included “Intermezzo No. 1” and “Lejano Azul,” pieces that reflect melancholy and hope.
Another notable patient was fellow musician Armando Rodriguez Jimenez. He spent most of his life in Agua de Dios and as such his work enriched the local culture. Rodriguez Jimenez composed the hymn of Agua de Dios and other pieces that refer to the town’s history.
Finally, the writer Adolfo Leon Gomez, who was a senator and a very active liberal politician in his time, also died in Agua de Dios, in 1927. Now recognized for his essays and short stories, he used his confinement to reflect on the human condition and social injustice.
His final works bear witness to his suffering, These include “La ciudad del dolor: ecos del presidio de inocentes” (“The City of Pain: Echoes of the Prison of Innocents”) and poems like “Insomnio” (“Insomnia”).
Bridge of Sighs, the last farewell for lepers in Agua de Dios village
Nestled in the heart of the municipality of Agua de Dios is the iconic Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs), a structure that holds stories of love, sadness and hope. This pedestrian bridge, built in the early twentieth century, connects two sectors of the town, which is marked by the legacy of leprosy.
The bridge’s name evokes the emotions of those who crossed it, as it symbolized the separation of the sick from their families, owing to the isolation law Colombia imposed upon its leprosy patients. The sighs in the bridge’s name represented the pain of saying goodbye, but also the hope of a reunion that, in most cases, never came.
Today, the Bridge of Sighs is a symbol of historical memory in the municipality. Surrounded by nature, it has become an attraction visited by tourists intrigued by sad stories of the past, which have happily since been overcome thanks to medical advances.
A currency of its own: the ‘peso de Agua de Dios’
One of the most striking curiosities of Agua de Dios was the creation of its own currency. Since the sick could not use the national currency for fear of spreading the disease through contact, the authorities issued bills and coins exclusively for the lazaretto. These, known as “pesos de Agua de Dios,” could only be used within the colony.
The bills had a simple design, but their existence symbolized the separation and isolation of the inhabitants from the rest of the country.
This special currency disappeared over time, especially after leprosy ceased to be such a dreaded health threat thanks to the development of effective treatments in the 20th century.
Legends and fears: the intangible legacy of the lepers village
Agua de Dios was not only marked by its official history, but also by the myths and legends that have been passed down from generation to generation. Many of these narratives are steeped in the fear that for centuries accompanied leprosy.
One of the most common tales is that of the “spirits of the forgotten.” According to the village’s oldest inhabitants, Agua de Dios is inhabited by the souls of those who died in isolation, far from their families and loved ones.
On quiet nights, some people even claim to have heard wailing or seen wandering shadows near the old hospitals and cemeteries.
Another recurring story is that of the “Cursed Currency”. Some of the old Agua de Dios bills are said to bring bad luck to those who find them.
Although these bills are now considered collector’s items and have a high historical value, there are those who prefer to avoid them for fear of attracting misfortune.
Agua de Dios today, a village full of life
Over the years, Agua de Dios has been transformed. In 1961, mandatory isolation for leprosy patients was eliminated, and the village began to open up to the rest of the country. Thanks to medical advances and the introduction of effective treatments, leprosy went from being a life sentence to a treatable disease.
Today, the town is a bustling municipality with nearly 13,000 inhabitants. Although vestiges of its past are still visible, such as the old hospital and some buildings used during the lazaretto period, Agua de Dios has managed to redefine itself. Its economy is based on agriculture, tourism and small local industries.
However, the municipality continues to commemorate its tragic history through cultural events and activities that seek to preserve the memory of those who lived in isolation.
The Leprosy Museum is an example of these efforts. This space is dedicated to educating visitors about the disease and paying tribute to the people who, against all odds, built a community that managed to navigate adversity. Today, this small town south of Bogota keeps the memory of Colombia’s brave leprosy patients alive.